A vivid insight into the world of chasing slabs from Phillip Thurston and Matt Blakers.
“I’ve been asked a few times; Do you ever get scared? I think if I didn’t, I wouldn’t be human. What I’m afraid of most though, is losing out to that fear. Having a false belief overcome me, and render my mind temporarily convinced, that what is before me, is greater than what is within me. I always act within reason and considerable foresight, but I would never want to live a life that is ruled by fear, where my decisions and emotions are influenced more by the circumstance I’m in, than by what my trust is in. That, would be what I’m afraid of most. Practically speaking though, the pictures that my mind can paint, can be difficult to overcome at times, especially when I’m so susceptible to a myriad of unfavourable scenarios. So the thing that makes me the most anxious when I’m out shooting waves like this, would be an encounter with a white shark for sure.”
“There is something about the slab, something so unique, that keeps drawing me back, again, and again, and again. Maybe it’s the way they move, the water that bends and refracts into shapes and obscure figures, each radically different from the next. Maybe each one is telling a story and I can’t get enough of their tales. Or maybe, they are proclaiming a greater truth, in a language that I can’t quite yet understand, a language that I can only observe for now.”
Phillip Thurston on shooting and chasing slabs. Checkout the full clip below.